Caring for your plants is the key to success in gardening. Whatever you plan to grow in your school nutrition garden, caring for your plants will make you a Green-fingered gardener. Like-minded friends can comprise into Green-fingered gardeners and form a Green Tribe in the school. Trial and error is the way many gardeners learn. Exploring what works and what doesn’t is a part of the fun of gardening. This quest of mine to look at the nature to help me grow and following the trial and error method, gave me a model of school nutrition gardening which I am sharing.
The first job in creating a School Nutrition Garden is to search for like-minded friends and teachers who wants to grow own food. Form a Green Tribe to follow ecological gardening practices and lets be with Nature in producing our food. Plan out your garden by a transect walk of the school campus and be sure where you want to create your garden. Create a resource map of all the things you feel could help you in gardening like the water source, high land, dry leaves, bamboo, green weeds, gardening tools etc. Keep your gardening dress, gardening boots and gloves ready and have fun.
While selecting the garden site always remember plants need the sun’s warmth and also protection from wind and rain. Find suitable places for growing your plants indoor and outdoor. You need pots and containers and also a small garden patch to grow your edible plants.
Water
Ascertain the water source as plants need water to make their food. The proportion of water needed varies from plant to plant. The water is drawn from the soil by the roots and transported to leaves through the stem. Sprinkling of water to the plant foliage also helps in fruit setting. We don’t have to flood the root zone but we have to keep it moist. In moist soil plants grow best. Create a small school garden Jalkund to harvest the rain water.
School Garden Jalkund
Towards the Lower side of the selected plot for the garden, dig a pit which is 3 feet wide and 5 feet long and 4 feet deep. Ensure that the side walls of the pit are slanting. Go to the nearby village and collect some paddy straw, cut them into pieces and stake them up in the bottom and side walls of the pit and pile up to a height of 1 feet. After piling the straw, spread a blue colour silpauline sheet over it. Cover up the side of the silpauline sheet with mud plastering on the top and we create a beautiful blue colour pit to collect the rainwater. Once the pit is full we can grow aquatic plants like the Azolla to check the evaporation loss. In winter days we can use this water for our garden. When we grow azolla, the water will also become nitrogen rich for our plants.
Soil
Plants need good soil that provides grip to the roots, prevent water draining away and to be filled with nutrients. The top layer of the soil is called humus and is the most important layer for plant nutrition and water holding capacity. Generating three centimeters of top soil takes 1000 years.
Continuous tillage operations like ploughing, loosening with spade, soil erosion and use of chemical fertilizers and herbicides detoriate the soil. The current rates of degradation of all the world’s top soil could be gone within 60 years depicted by a Senior scientist in the FAO. So we have to keep the top soil as it is for our next generation. To do so we must follow good soil health management practices. Soil is a living body due to the action of the microbes and the soil insects. In ecological gardening we take help of all and keep the soil good. To create a School Nutrition Perma Garden we must follow the following steps. We have to feed the soil and not the plants.
Good Soil Health Practices to be followed
Compost: Recycle and renew
We can turn all our bio degradable wastes in the school campus to wealth by making it into compost. Make a list of all the Bio degradable wastes that are generated in the school campus. Collect small twigs which are dry and easily breakable. Collect all the dry leaves that falls down in the ground. Collect all the green grasses your school mali cuts down and also the green weeds growing in the campus. Collect fruit and vegetable peels from your canteen or the hostel. Collect two sacks of top soil from a nearby jungle or dry animal manure (cows,goats,buffalo,pig or country chicken).
After collection of the composting materials the first step is to prepare an Extract to add up beneficial microorganisms to fasten up the composting process. Take 20 litre plastic drum and fill up water. Mix a handful of fresh cow dung or top soil, 1 litre of rice gruel, 3 meshed plantains. Add 1 litre of cow’s urine if available (optional). Stirr clockwise and anti-clockwise with a bamboo stick very fast to aerate the mixture for 20 minutes. Now this extract is ready to be sprinkled in each layer of the compost heap.
Second step is to select a partly sunny site and take an area of 1 metre wide and 1 metre long. Just remove the grasses from the area and loosen the soil of the selected site with a spade.Third step is to pile up the small twigs into a layer of about 2 inches like an inverted V above the selected area. Sprinkle the liquid extract over the layer of the twigs.Now, pile up a 4 inches layer of green weeds or kitchen wastes above the twigs and sprinkle the liquid extract.Take care that roots of green weeds are not added. This layer provides Nitrogen and also moisture. Above the green layer pile up dry leaves layer of 12 inches and sprinkle the extract on it. This dry layer is the Carbon and we can maintain the Carbon-Nitrogen ratio in our compost. Above the Dry leaves layer, spread one sack of top soil or dry animal manure and sprinkle the liquid extract over it. Repeat the Green weeds and grasses and kitchen waste layer upto 4 inches above it and sprinkle the liquid extract. Repeat the dry leaves layer (12 inches) and the top soil/animal manure layer and sprinkle the extract in each layer. After the animal manure layer cover up the whole heap with top soil which comes out when you make the garden drains. Mix water and mud plaster the whole heap to make it air-tight. Light watering is needed for next seven days. After seven days just put your hands inside the heap and you will find it’s hot. Then turn the heap with the spade mixing the top soil also and follow light watering and again mud plaster the whole mixture. Second turning and watering should be done in 14 days and again mud plaster the mixture. After 21-25 days you can harvest your compost to feed the soil.
Through composting the goodness from decaying plants can be recycled and turned into rich soil for new plants to use.
Bamboo Bio char Fertilizer
Bio char fertilizers are organic and can be prepared easily in our garden. Bio char made of bamboo is the best one for our tubs, containers and the raised beds. We should use bamboo bio char as bamboo grows up within 4 years. It’s a powerful soil amendment which increases water holding capacity of the soil. The charcoal of bamboo has high porous physical structure which retains microbes like Mycorrhizal fungi which helps plants with nutrients. It is a good source of Nitrogen and it sequesters carbon in the soil. The most easiest way to produce bamboo biochar for the school garden is as follows:
- Collect dry small pieces of bamboo and a Jute sack. Also a bucket of water and a match box and a spade. Wear your hand gloves and ask your senior members of the school to cut the bamboo into small pieces.
- Dig a pit of 1 feet long and 1 feet wide. The pit should be 1 feet deep . Dig the pit into a cone shape.
- Place the small dry bamboo pieces in the pit and burn them. Let the fire spread in the whole pit.
- Soak the Jute sack in the bucket of water.
- When the fire spreads in the pit and is into full flame cover up the fire with wet sack.
- Don’t allow the white smoke coming out of the sack by covering it with soil. Retain the white smoke.
- Keep it overnight and next day remove the sack and the soil and harvest the black bamboo charcoal.
- Select the pieces which can be easily broken and breaks with a tang sound. Collect them and make them to powder to apply in your soil mixed with compost.
Worm composting
is a form of composting where we use earthworms to eat up rotten compost and the excreta of the earthworms called castings is a very good quality organic manure. For worm composting we have to use surface feeder earthworms and those earthworms which consume 90% rotten biomass and only 10% soil. The process of using worms for composting is called Vermicomposting. The castings are called Vermicompost. The earthworms we use locally are found in the Banana pseudostem.
For making this compost we need a box( reuse Thermokol boxes or use Plastic box). Install the box in a raised platform and make a hole in one side of the bottom of the box. Install the box under shade. Put a layer of sand(2 centimetre) in the bottom of the box. Above the sand layer put a layer of dry cow dung powder (8 centimetre). Above it put a layer of rotten biomass or partially decomposed compost (15 centimetre) and repeat Dry cow dung powder layer (8 centimetre). Sprinkle water in the box so that the moisture content is about 60 per cent. To ascertain 60% moisture, just take a handful of the content of the box and squeeze. If two drops of water comes out that ascertains that we are near 60% moisture stage. Now release 20 earthworms in a box on the top layer and cover it up with a wet jute sack. Place a container just below the hole of the box to collect the liquid that comes out of the box. This liquid is called Vermiwash and is a very good plant tonic. Its mandatory to water the box every day about 2 mugs by sprinkling above the gunny sack. After few days you will notice granular castings on the top layer of the box and these are the castings. When you have a
layer of about one inch of the casting, stop watering for two days and collect the vermicompost of the top layer. After you reach the next zone where the worms are eating, again cover up with the sack and start daily watering to maintain 60% moisture content in the box. One box can be emptied by harvesting layer after layer from the top in about 30 days. Harvested castings can be used in tubs and raised beds of the garden. The liquid vermiwash can be used as foliar spray for better growth and development of the plant @ 1 litre vermiwash mixed with 9 litres of water.
4. Bio intensive Raised Beds
This is a permagardening model where in the focus is to reduce the amount of tillage and conserve the top layer of the soil for the future generation. Raised beds are prepared with the help of compost, top soil of the jungle, vermicompost and bamboo bio char fertilizer. So one month prior to establishing the raised beds we should ensure that the above mentioned operations of school gardening are followed. These beds give more production by ensuring sufficient growth of beneficial microbes in the soil. It improves the water holding capacity of the soil and prevents erosion of the top soil. The steps involved in making a Bio intensive raised bed Ecological School nutrition Perma Garden are as follows:
- In the garden site install the beds in the North-South direction to ensure proper light distribution to the plants.
- Make size of the beds to 3 feet wide and 10 feet long. Make a plan how many beds can be made in the selected area.
- Do not remove all the grasses or weeds from the selected site. Just remove where you want to make the beds.
- Remove the grasses and weeds from the 3 feet x 10 feet bed area. Now divide this into five parts of 2 feet wide length wise.
- Dig out 1 feet deep from the first 2 feet and store the soil in a bucket. Now loosen the bottom part of the pit made as much as possible.
- Then, dig out 1 feet deep soil from the second 2 feet patch and fill up the soil in the fairs patch pit. Again loosen the bottom part of the second pit.
- Dig out from the 3rd patch and fill up the soil into the second pit of the bed. Continue it upto last patch where after loosening the fifth patch in the bottom, fill up with the soil of the first patch kept in the bucket.
- Now use bamboo to make the wall of the raised beds. After the double digging method( steps involved above), make a cage of the bed upto six inches with bamboo or wooden plank.
- Place a layer of 2 inches dry leaves while raising the beds. Mix 1 kg fresh cow dung or Jungle top soil, 1 litre cow urine/ vermiwash, 3 meshed plantains in 50 litres of water and stir hard and apply above the dry leaves layer of the raised bed.
- Now fill up the raised part with Compost, Top soil from the jungle, Vermicompost, Bamboo bio char upto the top of the bamboo cage. You can also mix egg shell powder to add calcium and also repel the soil insects. Release big size earthworms on the beds.
- Follow high density planting as in raised beds roots can go deeper inside. Follow Hexagonal spacing in place of square spacing to facilitate more plants.
- Mulching is to cover up the exposed soil in the space between the target plants. Cover these areas with mulches( Paddy straw, partially decomposed compost, and live mulch like the Centella asiatica plants.
- The double digging operation is only for the first time and next season onward, we can just fill up the beds with the compost mix.
- Never plant only one type of crop in a bed. Always mix the crops in the bed.
- Collect indigenous varieties of herbs, veggies, fruits trees from the village nearby the school and plant them on the beds. 5. Tubs and Containers for planting Indigenous edible plants
Filling up a container or tub
Make some holes on the base of the tub/container and place some pebbles at the bottom. Fill up the tub with the mix of compost, vermicompost, bio char, egg shell powder. Plant the seedling on the centre of the tub. Mother plants to keep seeds for the next season can be grown in bigger tubs/containers. Place the tubs in different position of the garden and the school. You can also plant some indoor shade loving plants in the tub.
Border Plantation with Indigenous Fruit crops
Live Fence: Plantation of Lemon trees or thorny local fruit trees at a close spacing creates into a Live Fence. Lemon trees are thorny and if planted closely at a spacing of 1,5 to 2 feet, does not allow animals to come inside the garden. The lemons can be sold by the green tribe which fetches good price or else eat them up at the hostel or the school canteen.
Trap Crop: There are lots of crops which attract insect pests and also they have insect repellent properties in them. Marigold is such a crop which should be planted all around the raised beds next to the Lemon row to keep the bad insects away from the edible crops and also providing an aesthetic look to your school garden. The leaves and flowers of marigold can also be used to make insect repellent sprays.
In Ecological Farming practices we concentrate on gardening with our own internal resources and their sustainable usage. We do not depend on external inputs. It is low cost as we take Nature as the capital. Just following the above practices and without spending money we can set up our Ecological School Nutrition Permagarden. Only we need the positive attitude and the work culture.
In my next write up, I will discuss about Keeping our garden healthy. Happy Gardening
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